Well hello again, after all a day!
So, San Pedro De Atacama ... the driest desert in the WORLD!! And what did we do ... we rode bikes! Yes, that´s right everyone ANNA rented and rode a bike for the entire afternoon! Where did we ride bikes you may be asking yourself ... to the moon! Well, Valle de la luna (Valley of the Moon). I know there are some of you who have suspected for some time, that I´m from a different world, but I really hadn´t been to the moon before this! It was AWESOME!! We hiked up a to the ´view points´and WOW!! a moon like desert!!
At this point we had also booked our 3/4 day trip to Salar de Uyuni (the Bolivian Salt Flats) and they would be picking us up from our campsite at 8am. Speaking of campsites ... we had the privilege of entering a campsite slum earlier today! We´re not joking when we say a campsite slum ... basically, someone had opened up the backyard, for lack of a better term, to house what felt like 100 tents in an area a quarter of the size of a football field! Not enough room to put pegs in the tent and people smoking over tents ... not to mention where would we cook?! (not that we had a working stove) So, Steph set off to find a different campsite and in a half an hour, came back with 2 MUCH better options (this is the point where we picked up our bags and walked our of the campsite slum).
8am the next morning and we were away to the border. Some of you may not know this, but Steph (being the America) seems to need visas for half the countries and Bolivia was one of those countries. So, while everyone else was happily having their passports stamped, she had to write her name on a sheet of paper and watched as her passport was put in a drawer (not to worry, it was handed back to her when we left in the 4x4´s ... without a stamp that is ... turns out she had to pay the $135 when we got to Uyuni on the 3rd day of our trip).
That aside, they nicely gave us breakfast with REAL cheese and TEA! We were thrown into 4x4 groups and off to see the pink flamingos!! And did we ever see them!! Honestly, over the 3 days we saw hundreds of them!! And they were awesome! We saw them eating and sleeping and flying and bullying each other!
Next up on animal watch, were the llamas! And to distinguish the llamas (and who owns then), they all have bright colored ribbony things on their ears!
We´ve also seen vicunas (a combination of a llama and a deer ish) and a chinchilla!
This was interspersed with seeing lagunas, geysers, volcanos, and of course the salt flats! All were very impressive (Anna has now seen geysers), but the salt flats were AMAZING!! They were full of water, due to the rain we´d been having, but wow! They seemed to go on forever!!
Now, we had been warned about bad companies, which leave you with little food and bad food and not great accommodation, along with drunken drivers, so we made sure to look into it carefully! In saying that, our company was great! The food was excellent and there was plenty of it, accommodation was nice (we were told to bring our sleeping bags) and our driver was super cool!! Cordilla Traveler if anyone is to go (and we´d suggest going ... definitely a highlight of our trip so far!)
Oh! But bewarned ... the altitude is not nice!! (well, at least not the first day) Also, if you´re going to travel back to San Pedro from Uyuni ... it´s a long day with a very early start!
Well, off to our next country (Peru) and then on to Ecuador! I just hope the buses aren´t TOO bad!
Monday, 28 February 2011
Sunday, 27 February 2011
UFO and Pisco
It has been an internetless few weeks, so sorry everyone!!
Once we left Santiago we headed to Valparaiso, which is only a couple of hours away on the coast. We had been told that this little city held some magic and we would just fall in love with it. Our hostel was just outside the main area up at the top of a hill which looked down over the city, we had a great view! When we arrived we decided to spend the afternoon in town, not really knwoing where to get off the bus we picked a random stop and as the bus pulled away you will never guess what we saw!!! Emporio La Rosa! Overexcited we headed straight for it and got our old favourite. It was amazing, as always. Steph asked if there were anymore in Chile, to be told no. Our hearts would be broken once more in a couple of days.
We spent our time in Valparaiso wondering around the pretty navel town up and down the side streets. The City is full of old funicular's, some of which are still running to the top of Cerro'. We also found a wedding dress shop, which gave us some amusment.
Next stop was Pisco Elqui, the home to Pisco and UFO's. We didn`t arrive in Pisco till after dark, which didn`t cause too many problems as there was a jazz festival on. We ended up camping at a camp site down near the river, which had fantastic views in vine yards and the hills we discovered in the morning. Pisco Elqui is a lovely small town, but doesn`t really have much going on before 2pm, that is when we found most things opened that Monday morning. However, once things are open, don`t expect them to want to serve you food, even if they are an eating establishment. In our two days there, one day too many, we hit the distilleries. Pisco Elqui is named after the drink Pisco, which is famous in Chile and Peru. Although who came up with it first is a big question! Pisco is a brandy and is yummy when its turned into pisco sours! Pisco Sours is Pisco with lemon, sugar and egg white and if your not careful, goes straight to your head!! Three was the magic number that got us home to our tent safely. Anymore and who knows who´s tent we would have taken as ours.... do squatters rights apply to tents?
The next morning we were attempting to make cous cous for our lunch, we discovered that my stove had decided to stop working! We investigated the problem and determined that it had something to do with the hose. We made a quick call to Guy (who happened to be at work, which is an outdoor shop),whose first question was, ¨when was it last cleaned?¨ Awkward pause ... ¨never?¨ I think we found the problem! Quick phone call to the States and a chat to my Dad... we have a cleaning kit on the way (guess we won´t be camping too much before March 13th).
With our many many days in Pisco, we kept a look out for the UFO's. But didn't see anyway!! I am very shocked they didn't come to take Steph away! However, we did see some amazing stars.
Next stop on our tour is San Pedro De Atacama, the driest desert in the world!
Steph and Anna
Once we left Santiago we headed to Valparaiso, which is only a couple of hours away on the coast. We had been told that this little city held some magic and we would just fall in love with it. Our hostel was just outside the main area up at the top of a hill which looked down over the city, we had a great view! When we arrived we decided to spend the afternoon in town, not really knwoing where to get off the bus we picked a random stop and as the bus pulled away you will never guess what we saw!!! Emporio La Rosa! Overexcited we headed straight for it and got our old favourite. It was amazing, as always. Steph asked if there were anymore in Chile, to be told no. Our hearts would be broken once more in a couple of days.
We spent our time in Valparaiso wondering around the pretty navel town up and down the side streets. The City is full of old funicular's, some of which are still running to the top of Cerro'. We also found a wedding dress shop, which gave us some amusment.
Next stop was Pisco Elqui, the home to Pisco and UFO's. We didn`t arrive in Pisco till after dark, which didn`t cause too many problems as there was a jazz festival on. We ended up camping at a camp site down near the river, which had fantastic views in vine yards and the hills we discovered in the morning. Pisco Elqui is a lovely small town, but doesn`t really have much going on before 2pm, that is when we found most things opened that Monday morning. However, once things are open, don`t expect them to want to serve you food, even if they are an eating establishment. In our two days there, one day too many, we hit the distilleries. Pisco Elqui is named after the drink Pisco, which is famous in Chile and Peru. Although who came up with it first is a big question! Pisco is a brandy and is yummy when its turned into pisco sours! Pisco Sours is Pisco with lemon, sugar and egg white and if your not careful, goes straight to your head!! Three was the magic number that got us home to our tent safely. Anymore and who knows who´s tent we would have taken as ours.... do squatters rights apply to tents?
The next morning we were attempting to make cous cous for our lunch, we discovered that my stove had decided to stop working! We investigated the problem and determined that it had something to do with the hose. We made a quick call to Guy (who happened to be at work, which is an outdoor shop),whose first question was, ¨when was it last cleaned?¨ Awkward pause ... ¨never?¨ I think we found the problem! Quick phone call to the States and a chat to my Dad... we have a cleaning kit on the way (guess we won´t be camping too much before March 13th).
With our many many days in Pisco, we kept a look out for the UFO's. But didn't see anyway!! I am very shocked they didn't come to take Steph away! However, we did see some amazing stars.
Next stop on our tour is San Pedro De Atacama, the driest desert in the world!
Steph and Anna
Wednesday, 9 February 2011
Bird Poo and Tuna Cans ...
Just a wee update for those of you who prefer a shorter read.
We arrived in Santiago on Monday morning after a hellish bus ride. 12 hours of uncomfortable seats, mixed with a grumpy wanker of a bus attendant (similar to a flight attendant) and a breakfast consisting of a biscuit and ¨drinkable¨ juice does not make for a good bus ride. But hey, we did get to Santiago! And when we bought our own breakfast, it was AMAZING!! They do real fruit juice here, very well.
We´ve spent the past few days wandering around the city, visiting the main plaza and markets as well as the Paraguay embassy and managing to do some dissertation work. (Tomorrow will make it trip number 3 and hopefully our last to the Paraguay embassy, but atleast Steph will have a visa to the ¨shit hole¨ as Ben described to Anna when we get there - just for the record this is done over a MONTH in advance!!!)
Today we went up the Cerro San Cristobal (the viewpointy thingy in the city, states Anna). And were met by the virgin herself, arms wide open! (The statue was not quite as big as we thought it would be, as you can see it all over the city).
Our trip to the top consisted of Steph being pooped on by a foul pigeon! Which gave Anna great entertainment, as she is still laughing now. Anna did say that it was ¨supposed to be lucky ... or so they say¨ hmm ... if I get the visa to Paraguay tomorrow, I might believe it!
In other news, we´ve had ice cream TO DIE FOR!!! The combination of Raspberry Mint and Chocolate with Little Orange bits is AMAZING and if anyone is EVER to visit Santiago, they need to go to Emporio La Rosa and have this combination (although there is quiet a selection and they may be tempted by other things). But this recommendation comes with a warning: life will never be the same again and you will wander the globe (or South America in our case) searching for ice cream just as good.
Lastly, if ever you find yourself in the position where a can of tuna has stuck itself in your camping mug (possibly after you have put it there), we now know the method to extract it.
Firstly, you should take out the tuna meat. In our case, this was done by stabbing the can of tuna a couple of times and then using a sawing action with a knife to open the can. Secondly, try loosening the can´s edges. We used a knife to create a very small crevis between the tuna can and wall of the mug. Thirdly, put some kind of hole in the bottom of the tuna can (again, this was done by a knife). Lastly, using a bbq fork, wedge it into this crevis and start pushing or shoving. After a good 45 minutes and a forceful tug (this was possibly the most dangerous part of the operation, as Steph had to stick her hand into the can of tuna where there were sharp edges) the tuna can can then be extracted. Oh the plus side, there was no blood shed, the mug is still able to be used and other than knife indentations on the inside, it is fine.
We´re off to Valparaiso on Friday and then travelling north to the land of UFO´s.
Until next time, Steph and Anna
We arrived in Santiago on Monday morning after a hellish bus ride. 12 hours of uncomfortable seats, mixed with a grumpy wanker of a bus attendant (similar to a flight attendant) and a breakfast consisting of a biscuit and ¨drinkable¨ juice does not make for a good bus ride. But hey, we did get to Santiago! And when we bought our own breakfast, it was AMAZING!! They do real fruit juice here, very well.
We´ve spent the past few days wandering around the city, visiting the main plaza and markets as well as the Paraguay embassy and managing to do some dissertation work. (Tomorrow will make it trip number 3 and hopefully our last to the Paraguay embassy, but atleast Steph will have a visa to the ¨shit hole¨ as Ben described to Anna when we get there - just for the record this is done over a MONTH in advance!!!)
Today we went up the Cerro San Cristobal (the viewpointy thingy in the city, states Anna). And were met by the virgin herself, arms wide open! (The statue was not quite as big as we thought it would be, as you can see it all over the city).
Our trip to the top consisted of Steph being pooped on by a foul pigeon! Which gave Anna great entertainment, as she is still laughing now. Anna did say that it was ¨supposed to be lucky ... or so they say¨ hmm ... if I get the visa to Paraguay tomorrow, I might believe it!
In other news, we´ve had ice cream TO DIE FOR!!! The combination of Raspberry Mint and Chocolate with Little Orange bits is AMAZING and if anyone is EVER to visit Santiago, they need to go to Emporio La Rosa and have this combination (although there is quiet a selection and they may be tempted by other things). But this recommendation comes with a warning: life will never be the same again and you will wander the globe (or South America in our case) searching for ice cream just as good.
Lastly, if ever you find yourself in the position where a can of tuna has stuck itself in your camping mug (possibly after you have put it there), we now know the method to extract it.
Firstly, you should take out the tuna meat. In our case, this was done by stabbing the can of tuna a couple of times and then using a sawing action with a knife to open the can. Secondly, try loosening the can´s edges. We used a knife to create a very small crevis between the tuna can and wall of the mug. Thirdly, put some kind of hole in the bottom of the tuna can (again, this was done by a knife). Lastly, using a bbq fork, wedge it into this crevis and start pushing or shoving. After a good 45 minutes and a forceful tug (this was possibly the most dangerous part of the operation, as Steph had to stick her hand into the can of tuna where there were sharp edges) the tuna can can then be extracted. Oh the plus side, there was no blood shed, the mug is still able to be used and other than knife indentations on the inside, it is fine.
We´re off to Valparaiso on Friday and then travelling north to the land of UFO´s.
Until next time, Steph and Anna
Friday, 4 February 2011
And They Say The Scottish Climate Is Unique...
After a late start to the morning and seeing THE staute of Osorno, a giant bronze bull with super big balls, we caught our bus to Parque National Puyehue. After almost 2 hours, the bus dropped us off in the middle of nowhere at a rather nice looking restaurant. Slightly confused we went inside and ordered dessert. There's nothing like going out for pudding!! Even in the middle of nowhere in Patagonia.
There we met a lovely Chilean couple, Benjamin and Ilana, who were on their holidays visiting Benjamin´s Uncle, who happened to own the restaurant. We organised to go up the hill with them as they were doing the same hike as us. This hike consisted of us walking up to a Refugio and camping there the first night. The following day we planned to accend the Volcano and walk on to the Banos, some natural hot springs, and camp there for the night before going to see the Geisers and making our way back to where we camped the first night.
The Chilean couple knew so much about our surroundings and educated us in the animals and plant life of the area, teaching Steph the Spanish names. As it was a late start, we didn´t get to camp till 9.20pm. While some of you may think this risky, as Steph is not always the fastest of people, the tent was up and we had finished course one and two of dinner by 10.05pm. Talk about efficiency!!
The following morning, after a night of wind and rain, was suprisinly clear. However, within half an hour of us getting up the weather had started to close in. We started walking with our travel companions at 9.30am. By half 10, the mist had drawn in even more and we could no longer see the Volcano. We soon came across a couple heading in the opposite direction saying they were fast walkers and it had taken then 2 and a half hours to get this far. We had been walking for an hour at this point and were drenched. They said the weather was horrendous on the other side. Steph and I had a wee whisper behind a rock and decided to turn back. Why hike in the pissing rain to hide in a tent all day, wet and cold? 30 minutes later, we were back at the Refugio (bothy).
We set up camp for the day as more and more people arrived from both directions. By the time we got into our sleeping bags for the night, there were 22 people sleeping in a bothy made for 13!
The following morning, we woke to fresh snow fall on the Volcano. Cosy!! By 1 o'clock Steph and I were back at the restaurant. Why be wet, cold and miserabke on your holidays? Of the 22 of us that stayed in the bothy, 10 came down. We set up camp behind the restaurant at about 5, after hiding for most of the day inside. After a amazing burger, with amazing fillings, we headed back to camp. At about 9.30 at night Steph spotted two hikers coming along the path. It was Benjamin and Ilana!
We went and met them to find that they had walked from the Banos that day, leaving at 2pm when they realised the weather wasn´t going to change! They had encountered hail which had ripped their ponchos, a white out, where they couldn´t see the path and thick fog. Think we had made the right decision!! Especially as we had spent the later part of the afternoon drying out in the sun.
Today we have made it back to Osorno, where the sun is shinning. We just hope there is enough to keep us busy for two days, when we head to Santiago. Somehow, I don´t think it will!!
Anna and Steph
There we met a lovely Chilean couple, Benjamin and Ilana, who were on their holidays visiting Benjamin´s Uncle, who happened to own the restaurant. We organised to go up the hill with them as they were doing the same hike as us. This hike consisted of us walking up to a Refugio and camping there the first night. The following day we planned to accend the Volcano and walk on to the Banos, some natural hot springs, and camp there for the night before going to see the Geisers and making our way back to where we camped the first night.
The Chilean couple knew so much about our surroundings and educated us in the animals and plant life of the area, teaching Steph the Spanish names. As it was a late start, we didn´t get to camp till 9.20pm. While some of you may think this risky, as Steph is not always the fastest of people, the tent was up and we had finished course one and two of dinner by 10.05pm. Talk about efficiency!!
The following morning, after a night of wind and rain, was suprisinly clear. However, within half an hour of us getting up the weather had started to close in. We started walking with our travel companions at 9.30am. By half 10, the mist had drawn in even more and we could no longer see the Volcano. We soon came across a couple heading in the opposite direction saying they were fast walkers and it had taken then 2 and a half hours to get this far. We had been walking for an hour at this point and were drenched. They said the weather was horrendous on the other side. Steph and I had a wee whisper behind a rock and decided to turn back. Why hike in the pissing rain to hide in a tent all day, wet and cold? 30 minutes later, we were back at the Refugio (bothy).
We set up camp for the day as more and more people arrived from both directions. By the time we got into our sleeping bags for the night, there were 22 people sleeping in a bothy made for 13!
The following morning, we woke to fresh snow fall on the Volcano. Cosy!! By 1 o'clock Steph and I were back at the restaurant. Why be wet, cold and miserabke on your holidays? Of the 22 of us that stayed in the bothy, 10 came down. We set up camp behind the restaurant at about 5, after hiding for most of the day inside. After a amazing burger, with amazing fillings, we headed back to camp. At about 9.30 at night Steph spotted two hikers coming along the path. It was Benjamin and Ilana!
We went and met them to find that they had walked from the Banos that day, leaving at 2pm when they realised the weather wasn´t going to change! They had encountered hail which had ripped their ponchos, a white out, where they couldn´t see the path and thick fog. Think we had made the right decision!! Especially as we had spent the later part of the afternoon drying out in the sun.
Today we have made it back to Osorno, where the sun is shinning. We just hope there is enough to keep us busy for two days, when we head to Santiago. Somehow, I don´t think it will!!
Anna and Steph
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